Tag: shooting

A Word About Ammo

Choosing the right round for your AR build is one of the first things you should consider in your build process. With so many options ranging from .22 long to .50 BMG it is not an easy task. Several factors need to be taken into consideration, what will the rifle be used for? Plinking, home defense, large game? Does the cost per round and availability meet my needs? $3.78 a round for .50 BMG is a little expense compared to $0.48 for 22LR for frequent range trips and general plinking. Other considerations are barrel length and twist. Heavier bullets require more twists, 1:12 and longer barrels while lighter bullets can use shorter barrels with less twists, 1:7.

There are four major bullet types:

Full metal jacket (FMJ): a harder metal like copper, steel alloy, or gilding metal wrapped around a soft core usually lead. Sometime referred to as ball ammo. Inexpensive and good penetration are characteristics of this type.

Jacketed soft point (JSP): a harder metal like copper, steel alloy, or gilding metal wrapped around a soft core usually lead but with the lead tip exposed. This allows the round to expand on impact creating a larger wound.

Jacketed Hollow point (JHP): a hard metal like copper, steel alloy, or gilding metal bullet with a hollowed tip. It is designed to create a mushroom shape on impact decreasing penetration allowing for less collateral damage.

Boattail (BT): a hard metal like copper, steel alloy, or gilding metal bullet with a shape of a boat. This allows for a more stable and accurate round. Usually used in competitions.

A way to save money on the ammo mentioned above is to purchase surplus. Surplus ammo comes with other, non-monetary cost. It usually uses corrosive primers and/or has been sitting in storage for a bit collecting dust and dirt. One way to mitigate the corrosion is with ammonia, the amount in window cleaner is enough to get the job done. Just flush your upper with some cheap window cleaner when you are done shooting. Then when you are home clean and lube everything up, just like you do after every range trip. Not so much with 5.56 surplus ammo anymore but something to keep in mind with surplus ammo is that it is not marked well. You might not know what is in the projectile. It might be steel or other material that is not indoor range friendly.

The caliber and twist of your AR 15 is normally stamped on the barrel, if not, check the literature that came with your barrel or rifle. The 5.56 and .223 rounds are close, but not identical. The .223 is a civilian round and has Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) specs while the 5.56 is a military round that has their own specifications that might require higher pressure for higher velocity. As a rule of thumb, 5.56 chamber is OK to fire both 5.56 and .223 but .223 chamber is not OK to fire only .223.

Surplus ammo plays a role in the cost effectiveness of reloading. With the cheap price of surplus ammo it is not cost effective to reload those calibers. I think you start seeing a return on your investment when you start reloading “off” or custom calibers. Your presses and other equipment’s can cost a couple hundred dollars to your total cost of investment. If you are not reloading to save money but rather to get better accuracy with a better round or as a great way t relax and get more involved with your complete shooting experience, then reloading is for you.

REF:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Full_metal_jacket_bullet
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soft-point_bullet
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hollow-point_bullet
https://ammo.com/bullet-type/full-metal-jacket-boat-tail-fmj-bt

Starter on AR-15 Problems

There are a few areas of consideration when assessing issues with the AR-15 style firearms.

1.) Is the firearm new from a factory? If yes, is it a reputable manufacture, or fly by night?

2.) Is it a new home built? Is this the builders 1st or 50th?

3.) Finally, is this a used rifle that has been fired many times and just started to malfunction?

Ammo and routine maintenance are other items that should be looked at for all 3 considerations. Is it good quality ammo? Hand-loads? Cheap Ammo? When was the last time the rifle was cleaned?

First things first, clear the weapon, make sure it is safe and preform a function check. If the function check fails and it is a new rifle, you might want to send it back. If it is a new home built check that the springs are installed and installed correctly, in the right direction and place. If it is used and just started happening, check for spring wear and replace as needed. The hammer spring is a common culprit of many issues to include intermittent firing, misfires and light fires.

Bad gas can cause a lot of problems like short stroking which can be caused by an improperly staked bolt carrier key coming loose. Another spot to look is if the gas rings are missing or damaged, this is usually on the used rifles. On home built rifles especially, make sure the inlet and the gas port are properly aligned, tightened, and the correct tube is being used. An incorrect or misaligned gas block is a common culprit.

A failure to eject scenario can be cause by extractor and ejector springs. Would not hurt to have a few of those around the shop. Weak springs can cause the spent casing to get caught in the ejection port causing a stove pipe situation. Tell tail signs of ejector/extractor issues are dented cases, round rim markings like scratches or damage to the stamping at the bottom of the round. Inconsistent round ejection is another sign, if you test fire the weapon 3 times and the brass ejects to 3 very different angles, you have an issue. All 3 rounds should end up in a pile close to each other.

Talk to the person bringing you the rifle with the 3 questions above in mind. This will help you narrow down the issue and get the weapon back to your customer quickly. The AR-15 is a reliable weapon and with some initial questioning and test fires as required, you can quickly diagnose the issues and fix it.

REF:

YouTube – Various Michael Bell videos

AR-15 Parts and Functions

The function of the LOWER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY is to house the below items. This is also where the main difference between the AR-15 and the M16 is. The fire control group of the M16 allows either 3 round burst or full automatic fire in addition to safe and semi-auto fire. The AR-15 does not, it has only Safe and Semi firing options.

Lower Receiver – The lower receiver is the part of your rifle that is generally considered to be the firearm itself by the ATF. The lower receiver is where you’ll find your weapon’s serial number. This is also the only part that you will need to get from your local FFL.

Fire Control Group – The Fire control group consists of the trigger and the hammer of your AR-15, as well as other necessary housing components.

Receiver Extension and Buffer Assembly – As part of your rifle’s recoil system, this assembly helps absorb a lot of that kick, making a better shooting experience.

Magazine Catch Assembly – to secure the magazine and allow release when finished.

Bolt Catch Assembly – Is there to lock the bolt to the rear either manually or automatically when the last round is fired and the magazine is empty.

Stock – The butt stock is the part of your AR-15 that connects to the rifle’s firing mechanisms.

Pistol Grip – The pistol grip attaches to the lower receiver, giving you a firm handle of your rifle.

Takedown and Pivot Pin Assemblies – The takedown and pivot pins and detents lock the upper and lower receivers together.

The UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY house the below assemblies and are the same for AR-15 and M16 rifles.

Upper Receiver – The upper receiver is the part that contains the bolt carrier group and charging handle. The barrel and the forend are also attached to the upper receiver.

Barrel Assembly – The barrel will play a huge role in your accuracy on the range or in the field. There are many different calibers and lengths available.

Bolt Assembly – Houses the extractor and ejector assemblies. It locks the breech and initiates the ignition of the cartridge

Extractor Assembly – removes the round from the chamber

Ejector Assembly – Ejects the round from the breech

Bolt Carrier Assembly – consists of the firing pin, bolt, cam pin, extractor and gas key. At a very basic level, the bolt carrier group is responsible for loading your rifle, making sure bullets are fired correctly and ejecting spent rounds from the chamber.

Gas System – Your rifle relies on gas pressure to operate in the way that it’s designed. For the most part, gas blocks are installed on the barrel, inside the handguard. The gas tube connects to the block and the upper receiver.

Charging Handle Assembly – A charging handle is the part that pulls your bolt carrier group to the rear when you need to chamber a round or to clear a malfunction.

Forward Assist Assembly – If for whatever reason your bolt isn’t operating properly and won’t close all the way, the forward assist should help make sure it goes back into place.

Ejection Port Cover Assembly – When it’s closed, the ejection port cover will prevent dirt, dust and other debris from dirtying your rifle, as it keeps both the bolt carrier group and the upper receiver clean

Handguard(s) Assembly – The primary uses of rail systems and handguards is to protect your hand from this heat so you can enjoy a comfortable shooting experience.

Sights – Front and rear sights are alined to aim the rifle.

Magazine – You can get different sized magazines, but it’s important to keep in mind that laws for the size of magazines can vary from state to state.

When all of the above are assembled correctly it will allow for the eight cycles of firing:

1. Firing

2. Unlocking

3. Extraction

4. Ejecting

5. Cocking

6. Feeding

7. Chambering

8. Locking

All of the above parts and systems have many different variants. This is one of the great things about this platform. You can have barrel lengths from 24 to 7.5 inches with each having different twist rates. Handguards, Stocks and triggers also come in a wide variety of options. Bolt on additions seem to be only limited by your wallet.

REF:

U.S. Army TM 9-1005-319-10

https://www.wingtactical.com/parts-of-an-ar-15/

https://youtu.be/-UYctFUXuCM

Maintenance and Troubleshooting of AR-15 Type Rifles

Field Stripping can be done with what everyone should have out in the field, a bullet. Might not be the best tool, but in a pinch it will do everything you need to do. First thing you need to do is to remove the magazine, clear the weapon, ensure the bolt carrier group is forward and the safety is on. Set the firearm so the barrel is pointer to the right. Push the rear take down pin towards you, it will not come all the way out and you should feel the upper and lower separate when it is pushed far enough. Now do the same for the front take down pin. You can now separate the upper from the lower receiver.

To disassemble the upper receiver pull the charging handle back and remove the bolt carrier group. The charging handle will drop down as you continue to pull and can be removed from the receiver. On the left rear side of the bolt carrier, you’ll see what looks like a cotter pin, this is the firing-pin retaining pin. Pull the pin straight out and the firing pin will drop out of the bolt. Turn and remove the cam pin the bolt will now slide out. Make sure the gas ring gaps are not lined up and are in good shape. Next remove the extractor pin, the extractor will then come out. Inspect the extractor assembly spring and rubber piece to ensure good working order. Clean everything up with a small cleaning brush and solvent then wipe down with CLP. Re-assemble the bolt by putting the extractor and spring assembly back in the bolt and inserting the extractor pin, return the bolt to the carrier and insert the cam pin and rotate, insert the firing pin and the retaining pin. Run a couple swabs with solvent followed by CLP down the barrel. Insert the bolt group and charging handle to the upper receiver.

The lower assemble contains the trigger group, buffer system and the stock. To remove the buffer and spring, push in on the buffer and depress the retainer pin. The buffer and spring will come out. Clean the buffer assembly, spring, and tube with a swab dampened with CLP. The trigger assembly will require some grease at the pivot points. Inspect the stock for cracks and other damage.

The AR-15-style firearm is a versatile, modular, and easy to maintain rifle that with a little maintenance will last you a very long time.

REF:

U.S. Army TM 9-1005-319-10

Pistol vs Steel

Published on Jul 30, 2017

 

We got our steel targets from MOA targets . Man is shooting steel fun! We got 1 – 1/4 inch AR400 and 1 – 3/8 AR500 targets. I threw one of the targets I cut into the mix as well. All 8 inch. By the way, the AR400 I thought I had is mild steel, you will see as the video series progresses.

In a nut shell all 3 handled pistol up to .45 at 10 to 15 Yards without penetration. The Mild had some dents, AR 400 and AR 500 nada.

Here is the Color Code:

Black = Mild Steel, We cut
Yellow = MOA Targets AR500
Orange = MOA Targets AR400

 

Federal Firearms License (FFL) Guide – Intro

In the processes of getting my FFL I found lots of good material on line. It got me prepared for my interview with out a doubt. I realized though that the info on line was dated, so I decided to give back and update the info.

“Acknowledgement of Federal Firearms Regulations

Page references are in Federal Firearms Regulations Reference Guide (ATF P 5300.4 – December 2014)”

Everything I have seen referenced the 2005 version. I will reference the newer 2014 version located HERE

Continue reading “Federal Firearms License (FFL) Guide – Intro”

Steel Targets

There is a lot of talk about steel targets. You can go on line and find enough information to boggle your mind. I decided to go with ¼ inch AR400 steel gongs. These are for my personal use, nothing more. I will post pictures after I light them up.

Here is shot of the 4×8 sheet.

AR400 Steel for targets

I had to remember how to use my plasma cutter. It was not pretty, but I got it done:

With my Army back, I found it very hard to work on the floor so broke down the plate into smaller lighter sections. With help we put it up on some saw horses to make it easier to cut.

I also discovered these little gems from Swag Off Road. I put the screw and washer in one of the unused holes to create an adjustable stand off. I just adjust for the locations and tighten down the 2 nuts to keep my cutting tip off the steel.

And the bottom. Ignore the scoring:

Greatly improved my cuts:

Here is a shot of the targets for this run:

1 – 20 inch

1 – 12 inch

5 – 8 inch

4 – 6 inch

Drilled 2 holes in each, painted and setup:

Quick, inexpensive, and proven (to me) desiccant solution

Here is a quick, inexpensive, and proven (to me) desiccant solution I have used for a couple years to help keep the tools in my shop and the ammo rust and moisture free. We are in Central Texas and the tools are in a non-climate controlled but insulated metal building. Details of that are HERE.

So far no rust on any tools and all my ammo looks good.

Here is what you need:

1 bag Silicone kitty litter

Paint Strainers

Zip strip

1 cup measuring cup

I pour the kitty litter into a plastic container for easier use. Then I measure 1 solid cup of kitty litter out and pour it into an empty paint strainer. There is some silicone dust that I shack out through the strainer and then zip strip the top closed. I then add 1 strainer per ammo can and 1 strainer per tool drawer.

Here is a shot of what I use and what the strainers look like when I am done:

Here is a picture of old/used desiccant vs. new. New is the brighter stuff in the cup:

5-25-18: Just refreshed the shop desiccant, still rust free!

Also found these little “gift bags” at Dollar Tree for you guessed it, just a buck:

Great for small spaces…

Copy Protected by Chetan's WP-Copyprotect.