Category: Tools

Zero Clearance Porter Cable Table Saw Inserts

Here is what I did to make table saw zero clearance inserts for my Porter Cable PCB270TS
First I cut some scrap ½ inch plywood to the same basic dimensions as the factory insert. Using small screws attached the insert to the wood:
I then trimmed the corners and using my router table and the factory insert as a guide, cleaned up the ½ inch plywood to have the same outside dimensions as the factory insert.
I then made a template to mark the leveling screw holes. I drilled the holes from the top, if there is any tear out it will be on the bottom.
I then routed out about 3/8 inch material from the bottom leaving about 1/8 for the top. I used the factory insert as a template, so It is not exact. I went about 3/8 inch in around the ends and ¾ inch in from the sides.
This is not necessary, but I put on a coat of schlack and sand down.
I lowered my blade all the way down, inserted the insert, placed the fence over it and slowly raised the blade slowly until it was completely raised and through the insert. I had to use a 7 ¼ inch blade and then a 10 inch. The 10 inch would not lower enough to allow the insert to seat. Make sure your blade will not hit the fence when it comes up.
I like the knife behind the blade. So using a ¼ inch bit, the smallest I have. I drilled out an area long enough for the knife.
And there you have it:

My new Work Sharp 3000

I have wanted to get something to sharpen my shop tools for a while now. I quickly found out that sharpening was one of those topics that have no consensual answer. It is kind of like the all grain, extract discussion in home brewing. There is no right answer; it is what works best for you.
As a hobbyist and having no current sharpening system. I decided to go with the Work Sharp 3000 dry sharpening system. And I am glad I did.
I put my shiny new Work Sharp 3000 together last night.
I then found the worst chisel I had. I think at one time it was used as a hammer:
Following the instructions both written and in the included DVD I was able to get it looking like this in sort order:
With a little more work, I am very confident I could get it even better. I did the above in about 15 – 20 Minutes. Overall I am pretty happy. The setup was quick and easy, from taking it out of the box to working on the block of metal I found was less than 30 minutes. The preset angles are nice as well and aided in my ability to get started quickly.
I plan to build a stand for it, something to hold the sanding wheels and jigs I plan on getting. Whatever I decide I will post it here.

Shop Smith 10E(R) 16061 Restore – My Current Drill Press

Just some quick pictures of one of my other Shop Smith restores. This one is mounted in permanent drill press mode.

The Before shots

After:

To help keep the VERY Heavy Shop Smith 10E head in place, did I mention it is HEAVY? I went to McMaster-Carr and got 2ea, Two-piece Clamp-on Shaft Collar, Steel, 1-3/4″ Bore Part Number 6436K25 to help hold it in place:

Shop Smith 10E(R) 12103 Restore – Part 2

Here is a quick view of what I did to get it restored

Here are a couple shots of the headstock after electrolysis and a quick hit with the 4 inch angle grinder with a wire wheel attached. I tried filling the holes with cheap roller sponges I picked up from HF, thought I would be able to re-use them…Not!
 Then I primer it up..
And put it back together.
Then the way tubes. The one in front is before and the one on the shopsmith is the almost complete job. After loosening it up with electrolysis, I start with 150 grit and work down to steel wool and then a coat of Johnson’s Wax.
Here is a shot of the completed Shop Smith

Electrolysis – Electrolyte Solution

“Just put some baking soda onto a frying pan or a cookie sheet, and bake it in the oven at a little over 300°F (149°C) for an hour. “ You can go to the site for the scientific explanation. I have a lot of baking soda laying around, you can see in my other posts, it worked just fine. 1 tablespoon per gallon.
On a cookie sheet, in the oven at 320 for an hour
I store it in a plastic container until needed.
You will see the results of all this in the Shop Smith Restores.

Electrolysis – Just the Vats man!

Here are a few of my most used electrolysis vats. Re-bar seems to work just fine for me, I am not restoring gold or sunken pirates treasure. Just my own treasures. I have not seen pitting, staining, or anything else bad.
I drilled a small hole on each side of the re-bar, wrapped the copper wire around the re-bar. This also help hold the re-bar in place.
Don’t pay attention to my cable colors. Positive on the outside re-bar, negative on the part.
I use this one for medium size objects.
Action Shot:
Small Parts Version:
 Action Shot:
And my last entry. I use this one to do the long objects. Primarily Shop Smith Way tubes
Action Shot, I made some modifications to the re-bar, but it is the same vat.

Electrolysis – Power to the process!

I have been using electrolysis for a while now to remove rust from all my iron Shopsmith parts. I received my original inspiration here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/. Here is what I do to make it work:
Lets start with how I am going to get DC current to the processes. I started by doing some research with the all knowing Google and came up with these sites:
I did not like the idea of leaving the power supply together and I had a nice box to put it in. I put in a GFCI plug I had laying around and added the mounting hardware for the power supply board:
I then took the Power Supply apart and wired it up as the websites above describe. Well…almost the same….
I then mounted it in the box. I kept some extra wires for future testing, and I jumper-ed all the grounds off the single ground wire:
Here is the outside:
Here is an outside shot with both power supplies:

Next I will show some vats I made and the to the electrolyte.

Shop Smith 10E(R) 12103 Restore – Part I – In the Begining

Well a couple years ago I was picking up the good old ShopSmith 10E(R) for anywhere from $50 to $150 rebuilding and selling them. I kept 2 of the oldest for myself; 10E Serial Number 12103 from early 1949 I use as my horizontal machine, primarily lathe. And 16061 from mid-1949 which will be used as my permanent drill press. I will be showing some of what I did to those here.
If you are lucky enough to have one of these great pieces of American history this Yahoo! Group is a great source of information, http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shopsmith10ERusers/  They also manage a spreadsheet that has year manufacture by serial numbers.
If you are looking at restoring yours, here is another great site with a wealth of information: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=3503
If you need new parts here is Skips site http://www.mkctools.com/10erparts.htm
Here is a shot of the data plate on 12103, the horizontal machine.
And here are a few shots of what I had to start with:

This Cyclone Sucks! — Really

I wanted to build a cyclone for my newly installed Harbor Freight 2 Horse Power Dust Collector. After much research I decided to go with Phil Thiens Cyclone Separator Lid I am very happy with my decision. If you decide to make your own, head over to his site. The instructions are great.

Here is a shot of my lid upside down. I wanted to show the cutout and the elbow.

Here is a shot in between the lid and the baffle,  All my plumbing is 4 inch.
 Here is the completed product filling the void of my HF dust collector modification. The hose between the impeller and lid is 5 inch, I cut another piece of the hose that came with the Harbor Freight Dust Collector. It is a 5 to 4 inch reducer stuffed in the lid and there are clamps holding it in place, they are just not shown.

Again, I am pretty happy with the results.

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