DIY – Biesemeyer fence rails Part 1

It all started when I watched this 27 part series By AskWoodMan  and then watched this by AskTheSteelGuy My Porter Cable PCB270TS Table saw badly needed a new fence system. I watched the videos and contacted Askwoodman, who by the way is an all-around good guy. I went and got the required materials:
7 feet 3” x 2” x 11 gauge rectangle tubing             $51.00
7 feet 3” x 3” x ¼” angle iron                                $27.00
Cutting Fee                                                             $2.00
Tax                                                                          $7.00
Total                                                                        $87.00
I rounded everything up to the nearest dollar, 87 bucks not bad. Getting to make it myself, even better! A quick search on the internet shows 52 inch Biesemeyer fence rails going for $250 to $500. Mine will be 84 inches and a much higher quality.
Let’s get started. Here is a shot of the metals:
There is an extra piece of 3×2, I am saving for another project. Next I made some ¾” x ¾” blocks out of some scrap hardwood I had laying around and gathered up a couple ½” dowels:
I put the dowel and ¾” spacer in to get my distance from the back wall. Then I place the 3” x 2” rectangle weld side down and snugged it up against the block. I placed a mark about half way between the block and the edge. This does not have to be exact!
For me, that turned out to be about an inch from the edge.
Then I laid out the location of the holes on the angle iron that will be used to hold the tubing in place. I went an inch in from the sides and then cut everything in half until I was done. This is what I ended up with measuring from the end: 1” -> 10 ½” -> 21” -> 31 ½” -> 42” -> 52 ½” -> 63” -> 73 ½” -> 83  
Then I marked the holes with my metal punch. Again, does not need to be 100% accurate. You will understand a little further down.
Then I put the angle up on my drill press, chucked my number 7 metal drill bit and made sure everything was on the level. The number 7 bit is the size needed to tap ¼” x 20 threads that we need to hold down the tube. I then drilled all the holes.
I then put the angle back on the table using 3 sets of  2 x 4’s to raise it up high enough for the clamps. I put the rectangle, weld down; the dowel and then the ¾” blocks I made together. Making sure everything is lined up the way I want. I then clamped it tight.

Then I flipped it up to expose the #7 holes I just drilled. I don’t have a picture, kind of difficult to take. But I then put the #7 bit in my hand drill and drilled “marks” using the holes in the angle iron as a template. I drilled just enough to see the location I needed to drill. You can see the “mark” here:
Back on the drill press and drilled the marks out with the #7 bit.
I then measured the location of the holes on the saw and marked them on the angle iron.
I then drilled the holes for the rectangle tube out to 5/16” and the holes to mount to the table saw out to 3/8”
I will be using ¼” x 20 bolts to mount the angle to the table so I pulled out my ½” metal countersink and went to work.
Checked every hole to make sure I was at least flush.
Test Fit. SWEET!!!
While I have it mounted, I mark the miter slots. I then put it back on the table.
I then use a combination of drill press, jig saw and Dremel to cut out and clean up the slots.
I am going to build an extension table and out feed so I need angle iron for the back of the saw as well. I have extra 2” x 3” angle lying around. I clamped the 2 inch side to my already drilled 3” x 3” angle. Using shims I raised it up to be level with my miter slots and used a transfer punch to mark the holes.
I then drilled out 3/8” holes and moved everything out for cleanup. I used 3M abrasive pads to get everything all cleaned up.

I then started to Primer it up. At this point I am into it for about 4 hours. And I mean a Saturday, not a hard core work day. This has turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it would be. The paint and primer is going to take a while to dry in between coats. I will show the paint and mounting in the next post

Here is another link to Ask Woodman’s Video:

On to PART 2

Porter Cable Band Saw PCB330BS riser install using the Jet riser kit.

I have been pretty happy with my Porter Cable band saw so far. I got some new blades for it a Kreg fence, and I built a heavy duty base on wheels. Ever since I got the pecan log milled up, I have been wanting to try milling for my self. I decided to do the Porter Cable Band Saw PCB330BS riser install using the Jet riser kit.
I got the kit in the mail and opened it up. Comes with everything you need. I dont mind the cheap blade that comes with it. It works just fine to test everything out and get everything aligned.
First thing is to remove the upper part of the saw. To do this you will need a 26mm and a 1 inch wrench. My crescent wrench would not fit, to big. I dont know about you, but those are pretty large wrenches and I did not have them laying around. The 26 mm was a little tricky for me to find.
got it separated
Next I made a template of the top section so I would know exactly where to drill the holes on the bottom of the extension.
I put the template on the bottom of the Jet riser kit and marked the holes.
I then drilled them out with a 5/16 bit.
Test fit looks good!
I then created the template for the top
 Then I drilled the holes in the top of the band saw. It is the only modification I made to the saw itself.
Did another test fit, everything fit great. Painted everything black to match the Porter Cable PCB330BS.
Put the Jet Riser block in place and snugged everything up.
  At this point, I am thinking I am just about done. Couple more small things and done! Nope!
I try and put the new blade guard on, not even at all, It is so far off that I cant even get the mounting screws in. I pull out the Dremel and shave off the nipples on both ends.
Still does not fit, I end up using my Dremel to cut a piece of the upper arm cover away.
Now it fits and both the upper and lower doors close properly.
On to the next challenge, the upper guide bar. If you have been to other sites this is where you need to watch out for a small bearing and spring. They will pop out when you remove the existing guide bar.
Putting it back wont be a problem. You can slide everything back in through the top hole.
Well, it turns out that the new Jet upper bar guide is a little to thick. I want to keep all modification to the Riser kit just in case I want to remove it. So, I sand down the bar and polish it up until it slides freely.
But we are not finished with the guide post yet, turns out that the guide post seat is even smaller. Back to the Dremel! I grind down the bottom of the post until it fits. Sorry for the bad shot.
The guide post blade guard needs to be modified as well. The one you get it straight, it needs to have the half circle cut into it like the original. If you are keeping up, every major piece except the blade has been modified.
Here is a shot of everything put together
This modification is not for the faint of heart, it had me modifying more than I expected. I know that the Jet 6 inch riser kit was not intended for the Porter Cable PCB330BS, but is it really the best kit for the job? I don’t know. The 14 inch table saw is a great table saw. If I would have know that I wanted to do an extension, I would have looked more closely at the Grizzly band saws. To bad Porter Cable does not make an extension.

Home Brew Stir Plate DIY

I had an extra 120 volt 5 inch fan laying around so I decided to make a stir plate with it. I got some Magcraft NSN0586 1/2-Inch by 1/7-Inch by 1/8-Inch Rare Earth Ring Magnets, grabbed the JB Weld and got to it:
First was sticking the magnets to the fan:
I got a standard plastic storage container from WalMart, measured my mounting holes on the fan, and bolted in 4 screws:
I cut a notch in the back for the power cable. I made a notch so I could pull the cable in when I wanted to store or transport the stir Plate.
I then wired it up using a dimmer switch I had laying around:
And Tested: The idea is to keep the yeast suspended no more or less….
Then I pulled the cable in, and packed it for storage:
 Hope you find it useful!

Counterflow Homebrew Chiller

I then un-coiled my 50 feet of 3/8 inch OD copper tubing, measured and cut a 25 foot piece. I am thinking about using the other 25 feet for a pre-chiller / Emerson Chiller. The ground water is pretty warm here in the summer. I also cut 24 feet of garden hose.
Then I coiled it around a 10 gal corny keg
Then I put the ends on and loosely zip stripped it together.
Next thing is to test it and make sure everything is water tight. Looks like it passes!

Home Brew Pre-Chiller

Sometimes the tap water is just not cold enough to do the job required to cool the product. Here is what I did to create a pre-chiller. The idea is to have the water run through the copper coil that is packed in ice.

I spooled up 25 feet of 3/8 inch Inside diameter copper tubing around a corny keg. I left one piece long so I could pull it up from the bottom.
I then created all the angles I needed, I made the top bends to hang on the top of the Gotts cooler. I also pulled the coils apart a bit to try and get better efficiency.
 I added hose lines making sure that the in line was connected to the line that goes to the bottom.
  I put it in the cooler to make sure everything would fit.
  Here is a close shot:
Now to check and see if it is water tight….Looks like it is.

Partial / Mini Mash Tun

I wanted to create a partial / mini mash tun and stop using the grain bags I had. I also wanted to learn a little more about the all grain process, while using recipes I already knew. Here is what I did:
1 – 2 Gal cooler
1-  stopper
1 – Stainless steel braided water line
½ “ – OD copper line
2 – Hose Clamps
Remove the spigot:
Cut 3.5 inches of the copper line and cut the ends off the stainless steel line, and then cut yourself about 6 inch section. Slide the steel braiding off the plastic tubing and assemble everything as show below:
  When you get ready to mash, put the stopper over the copper line and seal the drain hole with it, placing the big end of the stopper inside the cooler:
You then need about 12 inches of tubing and a tube pincher (your brew store will have them) attached to the outside of your coolers copper tubing:
I have been using the old 1 ¼ quart of water per pound of grain measurements.
I would like to give a very special thanks to James Spenser @ www.basicbrewing.comthis is his idea, and they have some really good pod and video casts!
Partial / Mini-Mash Tun mash instructions:
Put your mini-mash tun together and carefully fill it with hot water to make sure there are no leaks. Using hot water also preheats the mash tun. At the same time bring 1 1/4 qts of water per pound of grain to 155 degrees*. Empty the still hot water out of your mash tun and pour in the measured water you just brought up to 155 degrees. Add in your milled grains and stir. Close the lid and set your timer for 45 min. After 45 min. timer goes off, move your brew pot to a location lower than the valve on your mash tun and open the valve allowing the liquid to flow from the mash tun into the brew pot. Pour 170 degree* water evenly over the grain using approx. 1 quart of water per 2 lb of grain. and wait until nearly all the water has dripped out; tipping if necessary. Put your brew pot back on the burner add enough water to get it to 2 1/2 gallons and turn on the heat. Stir in your malt extract and continue heating until boiling.
Continue to brew like you normally do….

* Varies by recipe